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2019/07 法國 庇里牛斯山大西洋到地中海 單車遊 Cycling tour crosses the Pyrenees from the Atlantic

      我們參加西班牙旅行社CycleFiesta的自行車騎行活動, 十天九夜的活動, 扣除中間一天休息日, 總共有七天騎行日. 我們只需負責晚餐, 旅行社提供單車, 住宿(含隔日早餐), 騎行中支援(含騎行中飲水點心和中餐), 領隊領騎, 支援車載送行李. 活動從法國西南部...

2019年7月10日 星期三

CTC cycling tour Day 4, Bagneres de Luchon to Saint Girons (Port de Bales & Portet d'Aspet), 2019/07/10

       經過昨日一天的休息後,今日又重新踏上新旅程。經過昨日一天下雨後,雨後天晴,今日空氣非常清新,騎自行車很舒適。已經騎了三天了,一大早用完早餐在旅館前整理單車,將車胎打氣,鏈條上油後,大夥一起照相後準備上路了。 今日回頭騎一小段昨天騎過的D618再轉D51往Port de Bales,這路段在2010環法賽第十五賽段發生著名的掉鏈事件,在此賽段比賽完之後,康塔多穿上黄衫。

     After a day's rest yesterday, today we are pedaling on a new journey. After a day of rain yesterday, the weather was fine after the rain. The air is very fresh, riding a bike is very comfortable. Has been riding for three days, early we used up breakfast in front of the hotel to organize the bicycle, the tire gas, the chain oil. The group were ready to go on the road after taking pictures.  A short rode back to D618 yesterday and then turn D51 to Port de Bales. Contador donned a yellow jersey after the famous chain-down incident occurred during the 15th stage of the 2010 Tour de France.




      2010年環法,當时康塔多和施莱克勢均力敵,兩人在高山賽段難分伯仲。在關鍵的第15賽段,在Port de Bales,安迪-施莱克突然掉鏈,康塔多等人趁着施莱克機械故障發起進攻,並最终赢了施莱克39秒,並穿上領騎衫。這次掉鏈門事件讓康塔多處于風口浪尖,是否應該等安迪成為各個媒体人士和車迷討論的話題,安迪-施莱克則表示康塔多此舉不厚道。

      In the 2010 Tour de France, Contador and Schleck were neck-and-neck in the mountain stages. In the crucial 15th stage, in Port de Bales, Andy Schleck suddenly dropped the chain, Contador and others took advantage of Schleck's mechanical failure to launch an attack, eventually winning Schleck 39 seconds, and put on the jersey. The chain-link incident has put Contador at the forefront of the debate, whether and should wait for Andy to be the subject of discussion among various media and fans, and Andy Schleck said Contador's move was unkind.

      今天開始騎乘出Luchon市區沒多久就要上坡爬山了,每天都要加碼的兩位美國人,上坡步調比我們快多了,在抵達D51叉路後就不見人影了。這段上坡路面很新,來往汽車也不多,是這幾天來騎乘最舒服的一天。在半途中,領隊Ian 停下來和大家講解,對面山頭就是Superbagneres山上,此處冬天是滑雪勝地。庇里牛斯山最高峰阿內托峰(Pico Aneto),標高3404米, 就躲在Superbagneres山后的雲朵中,等待白雲散去,就可以看到阿內托峰(Pico Aneto)本尊。

     It didn't take long for the two Americans to climb uphill when they started riding out of downtown Luchon today, and the two Americans who added the extra routes every day, who moved much faster than we did, and didn't see anyone on the D51 crossing. This uphill road is very new, there are not many cars. It's the most comfortable day to ride in three days. Halfway through, the leader, Ian, stopped to explain, opposite the hill top of the Superbagneres cable car station, where winter is a ski resort. Pico Aneto, the highest peak of Mount Pyreness. Above sea level 3404 meters, it hides in the clouds behind Superbagneres. Waiting for the white clouds to disperse, you can see Pico Aneto.


Luchon Hotel


領隊Ian 停下來和大家講解

對面山頭就是Superbagneres山上

        騎在山路上,看著遠方青天白雲, 聽著最新流行歌曲 Senortita,真是快樂的一天。路邊有許多剛捆好的牧草捆,就停下來休息,將單車放在牧草捆邊,和牧草捆照相。在歐洲鄉間夏天常看到牧草捆,那會儲藏起h來,等冬天來臨時,給牛羊食用的。這條路上大都是以放牧牛羊為主的農村,農村上的小天主堂也很漂亮。Lucia 將支援車停在一轉彎處空地上,大夥停下來休息補給。我和Ken 穿上昨天在Luchon 新買的車衣,車衣背面印有許多附近環法賽會經過的著名山口,80% 我們此行都會騎行。

     Riding on the mountain road, looking at the blue sky and white clouds, listening to the latest popular song Senortita, it was a happy day. There were many just-tied grass bales on the side of the road. And I stopped to rest, put bicycles on the side of the grass bales, and take pictures of the grass bales. In the European countryside in summer often see grass bales that will be stored, until winter comes, for cattle and sheep to eat. Most of this road was based on grazing cattle and sheep mainly in the countryside, the countryside of the small God hall was also very beautiful. Lucia parked the support car in a clearing at a corner, and the crowd stopped to rest for supplies. Ken and I put on our new cycling jersey baught yesterday, with many of the famous passes on the back of the jersey that passed the nearby Tour de France, and 80% of us rode on this trip.


將單車放在牧草捆邊,和牧草捆照相





這條路上大都是以放牧牛羊為主的農村

農村上的小天主堂也很漂亮


昨天在Luchon 新買的車衣,車衣背面印有許多附近環法賽會經過的著名山口



      休息完後,再騎沒多久就將抵達山頂,抵達山頂前是很空曠的大草原,山上有許多牛群。到達Port de Bales後,山上有在台灣常見的行動咖啡車,不過我們有支援車,並沒有在這裡喝咖啡。今天山上天氣很好,風也不大,上來山頂一定得和路標合照,照完向後就得開始下坡了。Port de Bales 標高1755米,環法是歸為HC 級坡,下坡路段都接近20km,有些下坡路面並不是很好。騎行公路自行車,騎C行夾器的公路車,手按煞把會按的很酸,只有Johnson 是騎碟煞公路車,騎下坡會比我們輕鬆許多。

        After the rest, it will not be long before it reaches the top of the mountain. It was very empty prairie before reaching the top of the mountain top. There were many cattle on the mountain. Upon arrival at Port de Bales, there were speedy coffee carts on the mountain. But we have support cars, and we don't have coffee here. The weather on the mountain was very good, the wind is not so hard, we must took photo with the road signs when we arrived the top. We will start to go downhill after finishing the supply.  The Port de Bales is 1755 meters high, and the Tour de France is classified as an HC grade. Downhill sections are close to 20km, some downhill paved roads are not very good, riding road bikes with C type clippers, the hand presses very sour expect Johnson is riding a disk brake, riding downhill is much easier than us.


抵達山頂前是很空曠的大草原

Johnson




到達Port de Bales後,山上有在台灣常見的行動咖啡車
Port de Bales 標高1755米,環法是歸為HC 級坡


       下完19公里長坡抵達莫萊翁巴魯斯(Mauleon-Barousse),從莫萊翁巴魯斯上到Port de Bales 是比較硬斗的,有許多超過 13% 的陡坡。Lucia 在這裡等大夥抵達集合後,之後騎D924接D121, D33A之後再接D618。準備在爬一座小山Col des Ares,之後再前往中午野餐地點用午餐。路邊小廣場也有一處山泉水水龍頭,將水壺裝滿山泉水後續行。

        After the 19km downhill to Mauleon-Barousse, the uphill from Moleon Barus to Port de Bales is a tough ascending, with many steep slopes over 13%. Lucia waited here for the group to arrive at the assembly, then rides the D924 to the D121, D33A and then picks up the D618. Prepare to climb a hill, Col des Ares. Then go to the noon picnic spot for lunch. Roadside Square also has a spring water tap, I filled with my water bottles with spring water.



下完19公里長坡抵達莫萊翁巴魯斯(Mauleon-Barousse)



從莫萊翁巴魯斯上到Port de Bales 是比較陡的

路邊小廣場也有一處山泉水水龍頭


        再爬上Col des Ares前,用中餐前做最後一次補給,吃些香蕉將水壺補滿水後續行D618。爬上Col des Ares這段路,坡度約只有5%,車很少很適合騎自行車,有些路面已變成碎石路。已經接近中午,氣溫熱了點,抵達Col des Ares,海拔約800米,稍微休息一下,就趕緊下坡到野餐地點。 Lucia 選擇在一農家旁草坪野餐,剛好有一隻大型犬陪我們一起用餐。

        Before climbing on to Col des Ares, make the last resupply before lunch. We ate some bananas and fill the kettle with water. The slope was only about 5%. There were few cars on this road. It's great for cycling. Some roads have become gravel road, the temperature is hot near noon. We reached Col des Ares, about 800 meters above sea level, take a short rest, and quickly downhill to the picnic spot. Lucia chose to have a picnic on the lawn next to a farmhouse. It just as a large dog was staying with us.





抵達Col des Ares,海拔約800米



剛好有一隻大型犬陪我們一起用餐
Lucia 選擇在一農家旁草坪野餐

        用完午餐後休息一會後出發,續沿D618騎到和D85交界處的HENNE-MORTE後,開始爬最後四公里半的超陡坡上Col de Portet d'Aspet, 平均坡度10%,最大坡度17%。這段上坡是我們此行騎乘的最陡坡,在上陡坡前路旁有一個很顯眼的白色大理石紀念碑,那是紀念奧運公路賽冠軍Fabio Casartelli  在1995年還法第15站,則因為 Portet d'Aspet 下坡摔車而喪生,在發生意外的地點為他所做的紀念碑。

     After a short break after lunch, continue along the D618 to HENNE-MORTE at the junction of the D85, and begin to climb the last four and a half kilometers on the ultra-steep slope Col de Portet d'Aspet, with an average slope of 10% and a maximum slope of 17%. This uphill ride is the steepest of our rides on this trip. On the front side of the steep slope there is a prominent white marble monument, which commemorates the 15th race of the Olympic road race, Fabio Casartelli, who was killed when he fell downhill in Portet d'Aspet, where the accident occurred.






       上一次第一個征服圖瑪列山且最後拿下該站的車手,是 1995年第15站,由法國人Richard Virenque 拿下,他戲劇性地一個人拿下所有六個分級坡,然後獨跑至終點,不幸的是當天 Fabio Casartelli 則因為 Portet d'Aspet 下坡摔車而喪生。近年觀賞自行車賽事,已經很習慣看到選手戴著自行車專用的安全帽。然而環法賽在已經進行第100屆的此時,其實在十幾年前的環法賽中,其實還是有很多選手不戴安全帽。國際自行車聯盟UCI現在強硬規定選手必須戴著安全帽才能上場比賽,最大原因是1995年的環法賽在庇里牛斯山賽段中的Col de Portet d'Aspet這個2級坡發生的死亡意外。

        The last time the first rider to conquer The Turmalet mountain and win the station was the 15th stage in 1995, won by Frenchman Richard Virenque, who dramatically took all six mountaineering points and then ran solo to the finish line. Unfortunately Fabio Casartelli on the same day. Portet d'Aspet was killed when he fell downhill. In recent years, watching cycling races, it is very customary to see athletes wearing helmets. However, at this time of the 100th Tour de France, in fact, in the Tour de France more than a decade ago, there are still a lot of players who do not wear helmets. The UCI of the International Cycling Union now has tough rules that athletes must wear a helmet to compete, most noting the fatal accident on the grade 2 slope of Col de Portet d'Aspet in the 1995 Tour de France at the Pyrenees Mountain stage.


        這個坡段是在1995年環法賽的第15站,故事就發生在庇里牛斯山第二個賽段中的第一個坡。年僅24歲的義大利籍奧運公路賽冠軍Fabio Casartelli ,當時正值他職業生涯的頂峰,卻在這個下坡發生摔車意外事故。在一個急轉彎處幾乎無法控制自己的自行車,因此和其他選手相撞,相當不幸地Fabio的頭部直接撞上路旁的混凝土磚。由於Fabio當時未戴安全帽,當場陷入昏迷,雖然馬上送到醫院但仍然回天乏術。當天所有參賽選手為了悼念這一位英年早逝的選手,由Fabio所屬的Motorola車隊列隊慢騎進終點,主集團隨後接著通過,當時大會也認可該站成績不予計算。當年與他同隊、一樣年輕,同時日後名留自行車史的美國自行車選手Lance Armstrong還是生涯第一次參加環法,他在第18站獲得單站冠軍後,發表了這一段感人肺腑的得獎感言:「這個冠軍是獻給Fabio Casartelli,在賽末我騎得非常非常辛苦的時候,然而因為一直想著他,才能拿到這個勝利。」

        The slope was the 15th stage of the 1995 Tour de France, and the story took place on the first slope of the second stage of mount Pyreness. Fabio Casartelli, the 24-year-old Italian Olympic road race champion, it was the pinnacle of his career when he crashed on the downhill. At a sharp turn he could barely control his bike, so he collided with the other runners, and unfortunately Fabio's head hit the concrete brick on the side of the road. Fabio, who was not wearing a helmet at the time, fell into a coma at the scene and, although he was rushed to the hospital, he was still recovering. All the contestants of the day, in memory of the young man who passed away, were slowly ridden into the finish line by Fabio's Motorola team, which was then passed by the main group, and the General Assembly also acknowledged that the station's results would not be counted. Lance Armstrong, the American cyclist who was younger and the same as his team, and who has a cycling history, made his first career Tour de France appearance, delivering a touching tribute after winning the singles title at the 18th stage: 「 This championship is dedicated to Fabio Casartelli. I rode very hard at the end of the race, but because I was thinking about him, I could get the win. 」

        之後在這個發生意外事故的坡段旁設立了Fabio Casartelli紀念碑,標示著他當時遇難的地點,以及個人出生與去世時間,及屬於Fabio Casartelli的奧運五環榮譽。同時自1997年起,為了紀念這位遺憾未能繼續在賽道上的優異年輕選手,環法賽大會將25歲以下年輕車手的榮耀白色領騎衫,正式改名為「souvenir Fabio Casartelli」。

       The Fabio Casartelli memorial was then erected next to the slope where the accident occurred, marking the place where he was killed, the time of his birth and death, and the Olympic rings that belonged to Fabio Casartelli. Also since 1997, in memory of the outstanding young racer who regretted not being able to continue on the track, the Tour de France officially renamed the glorious white jersey of the young rider under the age of 25 "souvenir Fabio Casartelli".



白色大理石紀念碑,紀念奧運公路賽冠軍Fabio Casartelli 

        這坡蠻陡的,雖然是大熱天,但沿路樹木參天,也曬不到陽光 ,但爬坡太喘了,還是得停下來稍稍休息喝口水再上路。沒多久就抵達山頂了,山頂海拔高1069米。山頂上有一座小農莊,旁邊有山泉水。和路標照相後,去山泉水處休息補充水源,先上來的車友也都在這裡休息,支援車也在這裡等大家都上山。

        This slope is quite steep, although it is a hot day, but along the road trees, also can not get the sun. But the climb is too breathless, or have to stop for a little rest and drink water and then on the road. It didn't take long to reach the top of the mountain, which is 1069 meters above sea level. There is a small farm on the top of the hill, next to the spring water. After taking pictures with road signs, I go to the mountain spring rest to replenish the spring water. The friends who climbed the mountain first also rested here. The support car is also here waiting for everyone to go up the hill.




上Col de Portet d'Aspet, 平均坡度10%,最大坡度17%



山頂上有一座小農莊,旁邊有山泉水



       等大家到期休息補給完畢後,就準備往今入住宿地點聖吉龍(Saint-Girons)前去。繼續沿D618 前行,前五公里是比較陡的下坡到聖拉里Saint-Lary,聖拉里也是一個美麗的小農村,之後都是緩下坡,還得騎25 公里到聖吉龍。抵達昂戈梅(Engomer)前,遇到一對夫妻檔車友,老公後輪破胎,和我們借打氣筒,我們停下來借他打氣, 破胎太嚴重,需要換內胎或外胎,留給我們支援車幫忙。我們還得騎10公里到旅館。我自己習慣騎車時, 一定都會攜帶打氣筒、內胎、和小工具。自行車出問題,不但可以自救也可以幫助他人。

        When everyone is due to rest and supplies, they are ready to go to The Saint-Girons, where we are staying. Continue along the D618, the first five kilometers are steeper downhill to Saint-Larry Saint-Larry. St. Larry is also a beautiful little countryside, followed by a gentle descent, and also has to ride 25 km to Saint-Girons. Before arriving in Engomer, I met a couple of cyclists, husband rear tire broke, and we borrowed gas cylinders to him.The tire was too serious, need to change the inner tube or outer tire. We still have to ride 10 kilometers to the hotel. When I'm used to riding a bike, I must carry a gas cylinder, an inner tube, and gadgets. It not only can help myself but also can help others when there's a problem with the bike.


聖拉里也是一個美麗的小農村







       大抵沿著Lelez河邊行走,經過一圓環過了橋後,已經接近市區。過橋後有一股孰悉的感覺,我十五年前第一次到法國旅遊,有一晚在聖吉龍住宿,那時住宿的旅館就在過橋後左邊。在騎一公里左右,抵達我們今日住的旅館Hotel Enchenne。今日下午三點左右即抵達旅館,而且是個大晴天,旅館又有游泳池。我和夥伴Ken 在泳池游了半小時,點了瓶比利時啤酒,在泳池畔休息,等待晚餐的來臨。晚餐我們選擇在旅館用餐,點了牛排餐還有一瓶紅酒,前菜是當地產的火腿片和香腸,餐後甜點是典型的法是甜點紅寶石覆盆子塔。今日的晚餐大家吃得很愉快,也喝的微醺了,用完餐天也黑了,就沒去街上走走了, 有點可惜。

        Walk along the Lelez River, pass a ring over the bridge, and approach the city. After crossing the bridge there was a feeling of insight, I first visited France fifteen years ago, had a night in Saint- Girons. The hotel was on the left behind the bridge. On a ride about a kilometer, arrive at the Hotel Enchenne. Arrived at the hotel at about 3 pm today. It is a sunny day, the hotel had a swimming pool. My partner Ken and I swam in the pool for half an hour, ordered a bottle of Belgian beer, rested by the pool, and waited for dinner to come.  For dinner we chose to dine at the hotel, ordered a steak and a bottle of red wine. The starters are locally produced ham slices and sausages, and after-dinner desserts are typical of the dessert ruby raspberry tart. Today's dinner everyone had a good time, but also a little drink. It's dark when we're done. It was a little pity that I didn't go walking down the street.


旅館又有游泳池。我和夥伴Ken 在泳池游了半小時



前菜是當地產的火腿片和香腸


餐後甜點是典型的法是甜點紅寶石覆盆子塔


 


路線:110公里(2,240米上升)
Route: 110km (2,240m ascending)





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