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2019/07 法國 庇里牛斯山大西洋到地中海 單車遊 Cycling tour crosses the Pyrenees from the Atlantic

      我們參加西班牙旅行社CycleFiesta的自行車騎行活動, 十天九夜的活動, 扣除中間一天休息日, 總共有七天騎行日. 我們只需負責晚餐, 旅行社提供單車, 住宿(含隔日早餐), 騎行中支援(含騎行中飲水點心和中餐), 領隊領騎, 支援車載送行李. 活動從法國西南部...

2019年7月9日 星期二

CTC cycling tour Day 3, Argeles Gazost to Bagneres de Luchon (Tourmalet, Aspin & Peyresourde), 2019/07/08


       清晨是陰天 天氣比較涼爽,但是沒下雨,今天早上我還特地帶上腿套。 用完早餐合影後出發,要先騎到呂聖索弗(Luz-Saint-Sauveur),之後才開始爬圖爾馬萊特山(Col du Tourmalet),出發後先沿著自行車道騎行,這條自行車道騎行的人不多,道路很平坦,道路前方和左側都可以看見不遠處的比利牛斯山群峰。

      It was cloudy in the morning and the weather was cooler, but it didn't rain. I also took my leg cover with me this morning. After using breakfast and taking the photo, we start riding to Luz-Saint-Sauveur before climbing the Col du Tourmalet. After departure, we start riding along the bike path, which is not very popular, the road is very flat, the front and left side of the road can be seen not far from the Pyrenees mountain peak.


Argeles Gazost hotel


出發後先沿著自行車道騎行

       接著沿D921道路前行,我早上還是穿太多了,身體感覺太熱了,停下來幫隊友照相並將腿套脫下來。 再上馬時已經變成最後後一個了。按著規畫著軌跡前行,抵達呂聖索弗(Luz-Saint-Sauveur),接D918往圖爾馬萊特山方向。

       Then along the D921 road, I still wear too much in the morning. I had warmed up, stopped to take pictures of teammates and take off the leg sleeve. When it was on the bike again it had become the last one. Following the track, arrived at Luz-Saint-Sauveur along D918 towards The Turmalet Hill.


接著沿D921道路前行

Johnson


呂聖索弗(Luz-Saint-Sauveur)


     呂聖索弗也是庇里牛斯山區熱門健行路線,冰斗Cirque de Gavarnie和Néouvielle 湖群的出入門戶。位於法國邊境,庇里牛斯山著名的登山路線之一,Néouvielle 湖群保護區。這些冰蝕湖群的周邊頂峰約有3000多公尺,這邊的路線並不困難,路線規劃可長可短。在Luz-Saint-Sauveur有多家戶外用品店,還有家樂福超市、麵包店、肉店和餐廳。離多個著名登山路線不遠,也是Néouvielle登山者補給的好地方。

     Luc Saint-Sauveur is also the gateway to the Cirque de Gavarnie and Néouvielle lakes on the popular hiking route in the Pyrenees Mountains. On the French border, one of the famous climbing routes of Mount Pyrenees, the Lake Néouvielle Reserve. The surrounding peak of these ice -corrosion lakes is about 3000 meters high. These routes here are not difficult, the routes can be long or short. There are several outdoor shops in Luz-Saint-Sauveur, as well as Carrefour supermarkets, bakeries, butchers and restaurants. Not far from several famous climbing routes, it is also a great place for the climbers to resupply.


呂聖索弗(Luz-Saint-Sauveur)

     今天的長路線通過攀登到Luz Ardiden加碼延伸路線,就是從Luz-Saint-Sauveur開始起登。 這是一個美麗的上升,是真正適合騎手有非常強大的腿的車友來加碼。2003年環法壯哥拿下穿過圖瑪列山的第15站,這站最有名的是壯哥上 終點 Luz Ardiden 的最後爬坡,因旁邊觀賽者而摔車,但他最後仍拿下該站。
   
      Today's long route extends by climbing to Luz Ardiden ski resort, which starts with Luz-Saint-Sauveur. It's a beautiful ascent and is really suitable for riders with very strong legs. In 2003 the Tour de France won the 15th stage through Mount Turmalet, the most famous of Lance Armstrong was the last climb of the Grand Slam finisher Luz Ardiden that fell because of a spectator next to him, but he finally took the station win.


呂聖索弗(Luz-Saint-Sauveur)

    我們支援車就在呂聖索弗(Luz-Saint-Sauveur),沿著D918不遠處等者我們補給,吃水果點心,將水壺補滿水,準備上此行最高點圖爾馬萊特山口。圖馬列山(Col du Tourmalet)是法國南部庇里牛斯山的最高路段,也是環法自行車大賽最有名的登山站之一,從1910年開始將庇里牛斯山加入戰局後,圖馬列山就成為環法賽史上選手最常要挑戰的山頭。

       The support the car stayed in Luz-Saint-Sauveur along the D918 to the Turmalet,. We ate fruit snacks, fill the kettle with water, ready to go to the highest point of the trip to the Turmalet Pass. Col du Tourmalet, the highest section of mount Pyrenees in southern France and one of the most famous climbing stops in the Tour de France. It has been the most challenged mountain in tour of the Tour de France since 1910, when it was added to the race.


我們補給,吃水果點心,將水壺補滿水




      圖馬列山海拔2115公尺,它不但是法國南部的滑雪勝地,也是法國羊乳酪的重要產地。史上第一位贏得本站冠軍的是法國車手拉皮茲(Octave. Lapize),他最後也順利穿著領先的黃衫進入巴黎,勇奪1910年環法賽冠軍。

     At 2,115 metres above sea level, the Turmalet pass are not only a ski resort in the south of France, but also an important source of French goat's cheese. The first man in history to win the race was French cyclist (Octave Lapize), who eventually entered Paris in a leading yellow jersey to win the 1910 Tour de France.


Col du Turmalet

      開始騎行19公里準備爬上圖爾馬萊特山口,這段路開始有遇到比較多騎自行車車友,但比起阿爾卑斯山,騎行者還是少了點。 平均坡度7.4%,抵達山頂前才比較陡。按照自己的節奏,採取高踏頻方式騎乘,並不會太難騎。愈往高處,沿途大都是高山草原景觀。

    Start cycling 19km to climb the Turmalet Pass, which begins to meet more cyclists, but is still a little less than in the Alps. The average slope is 7.4%, and it is steep before reaching the top of the mountain. According to their own rhythm, take a high step way riding, and not too difficult to ride. The higher the height, along the way are mostly alpine grassland landscape.




Jammie and his wife

Ken 按照自己的節奏,採取高踏頻方式騎乘

Thomas


      途中會經過一個比較大的小鎮巴雷熱 (Barages) 海拔1200m,再爬升五百米,會抵達海拔1700米的La mongie纜車站。這裡有很大的停車場,常常是大賽的終點站。纜車可以上到南峰(Pic du Midi,2877米),南峰上有觀景平台和一座天文館,平臺上可以飽覽整個比利牛斯山脈風景。

      On the way through a larger town of Barages at an altitude of 1200m, riding uphill another 500m, and reach the La Mongie cable car station at an altitude of 1,700 meters. There is a large parking lot, often the end of the race. The cable car can go up to the Pic du Midi (2877 m), with a viewing platform and a planetarium on the southern peak. The platform offers views of the entire Pyrenees Mountains.

小鎮巴雷熱 (Barages) 海拔1200m


海拔1700米的La mongie纜車站



       還要騎五公里爬升四百米到最高點,沿途也會有些放牧的牛羊群. 在庇里牛斯山的國家公園內,有著不少夏季登山放牧的牲口(法文:transhumance),可以是牛、羊或是馬。從六月底到九月中,他們會待在高山上吃草,之後便會下山過冬,這是庇里牛斯山已經延續幾千年的放牧傳統。

      There will also be a five - kilometer uphill of four hundred meters to the highest point, along the way there will be some grazing cattle and sheep. In the National Park of Mount Pyrenees, there are plenty of cattle and cattle (French: transhumance) that can be cattle, sheep or horses. From the end of June to mid-September, they will stay in the mountains to graze, and then go down for the winter, a thousand-year-old grazing tradition that has been in the Hills of Pyrenees.


沿途也會有些放牧的牛羊群



     途中遇到Lucia,和她要了水和Power bar,準備做最後衝刺。接近山頂坡度開始變陡了,到了圖爾馬萊特山口,風很大溫度有點冷,和路標和Lapize 雕像合影後就下滑。圖瑪列山頂有二個雕像, 分別為 Jacques Goddet 紀念雕像 及 圖瑪列 Octave Lapize巨人像。Jacques Goddet 獎,是頒發獎金給第一個穿過圖瑪列山的車手,前環法總監Jacques Goddet。

    Meet Lucia, get water and Power bar, ready to do the final sprint. Towards the top of the mountain the slope began to steepen. Arrive to the Turmalet Pass, the wind was very windy and a little cold. Photo with the signposts and the Lapize statue, then we rode downhill. There are two statues on top of the Turmalet mountain, the Jacques Goddet Memorial Statue and the Octave Lapize Giant Statue. The Jacques Goddet Award is awarded to the first rider to cross the Turmalet mountains. Former Tour de France director Jacques Goddet.

Ian





La mongie

Johnson

Octave Lapize 雕像

    Tourmalet 上的Octave Lapize 雕像:  古今對比山地站,早年的山地站距離長,爬的山頭又多,幾乎是現代賽事的1.5倍至2倍長度,舉例來說,1910年的山地站,選手在兩站的時間就要騎完615公里的庇里牛斯山地。Octave Lapize 也是當年环法黄衫得主。Octave Lapize,是当年(1910)第二位上山的, 當他一見到賽會人員時,大聲的痛罵,「兇手,你們這些殺人兇手,等我下山我就退出比賽!」 (似乎古今中外的所有車友被詐騙之後都會這樣講) Lapize 不但沒有退賽,他在下坡時還超越之前的選手,獲得這個經典單站的冠軍。

     Octave Lapize statue on Tourmalet: The ancient and modern mountain stages, the early mountain stages were long distances, climbed more and more, almost 1.5 times to twice the length of modern events, for example, in the 1910 mountain stages, the runners had to ride 615km of the Pyrenees Mountain in two stops. Octave Lapize was also the winner of the Tour de France. Octave Lapize, who was the second person to go up the hill in 1910, shouted when he saw the race staff, "Murderer, you murderers, I'll quit the race when I go down the hill!" (It seems that all the cyclists have been scammed to say so) Lapize not only did not retire, he also overtook the previous cyclist in the downhill to win the classic single-stop championship.



     圖馬列山(Col du Tourmalet)是法國南部庇里牛斯山的最高路段,也是環法自行車大賽最有名的登山站之一,從1910年開始將庇里牛斯山加入戰局後,圖馬列山就成為環法賽史上選手最常要挑戰的山頭。圖馬列山海拔2115公尺,它不但是法國南部的滑雪勝地,也是法國羊乳酪的重要產地。史上第一位贏得本站冠軍的是法國車手拉皮茲(Octave. Lapize),他最後也順利穿著領先的黃衫進入巴黎,勇奪1910年環法賽冠軍。

    Col du Tourmalet, the highest pass of mount Pyrenees in southern France and one of the most famous mountain stops in the Tour de France, has been the most challenged mountain in the Tour de France since 1910, when it was added to the race. At 2,115 meters above sea level, the Turmalet  mountains are not only a ski resort in the south of France, but also an important source of French goat's cheese. The first man in history to win the race was French cyclist Octave Lapize, who eventually entered Paris in a leading yellow jersey to win the 1910 Tour de France.


Col du Tourmalet



      接著穿上外套準備迎接一段長下坡,要下滑17km到東面的Sainte-Marie-de-Campan。長下坡手指一直按剎車,手指和手臂都很酸,抵達平坦路段 停下來休息,活動活動筋骨。沒多久就到達Sainte-Marie-de-Campan 小鎮,英國夫婦倆在轉角一間咖啡廳喝咖啡。

      Then put on my coat and prepare for a long descent, downhill 17km to the east of Sainte-Marie-de-Campan. The fingers have been pressing the shift lever, fingers and arms are very sour, reach the flat section of the road to stop to rest. It didn't take long to get to the small town of Sainte-Marie-de-Campan, where the British couple had coffee in a cafe around the corner.





John

Sainte-Marie-de-Campan 小鎮

      這個小鎮有個環法選手Eugène Christophe拿著前叉的著名雕像。1913年,Eugène Christophe 原本有機會拿下該年的環法賽,原領先其他車手有 18分鐘,但在下圖瑪列山,前叉斷了,但依當年賽事規則是不得取得其他協助,只好花了數個小時走下山,最後找到了一家位於 Sainte-Marie-de-Campan 的鐵工廠,自已修理他的前叉。最後他的總合成績為第7名。

     The town has a famous statue of The Tour de France's Eugène Christophe with a fork. In 1913, Eugène Christophe had a chance to win the Tour de France that year, 18 minutes ahead of the other cyclists. The fore fork broke when downhill from the Toremalet, but under the rules of the race was not allowed to get other assistance, had to spend hours walking down the hill, and finally found a Sainte-Marie-de-Campan's iron factory, repairing his fork himself. In the end, his total was 7th.
  
Left: Eugène Christophe拿著前叉的著名雕像
  
    抵達小鎮後續行D918,Lucia 選擇在河邊一處桌椅旁,讓大家用中餐,今天也是以野餐型式,餐點也是三明治, 水果, 飲料。 用完中餐休息片刻後,準備騎12公里爬升600米,到今日第二座山頭阿斯皮恩山Col d'Aspin。

   Arriving at the town's follow-up D918, Lucia chose to have a picnic at a table and chair by the river. And it was also picnic-style, and the meal was also sandwich, fruit, and drink. After a short break, we prepare to ride 12km to another uphill 600m to today's second mountain stop of Mount the Col d'Aspin.




今天也是以野餐型式,餐點也是三明治, 水果, 飲料


      繼續沿著D918前行,一開始沿著河邊,道路兩旁有樹木,沿途都有樹陰,騎起自行車很是涼快。不知不覺間就快抵達山頂Col d'Aspin ,山頂前已經看不到高大樹木,又變成草原景觀。待會還要爬今天最後一座山佩爾蘇德山Col de Peyresourde,照幾張相片後套上外套後開始下坡,

     Continue along the D918, starting along the river, with trees on both sides of the road, trees shading along the way, and riding a bike that is cool. Unwittingly, you reach the top of the mountain, and before you reach the top of the mountain, you can't see the tall trees, and then turn into a grassland landscape. The final mountain of the day will also climb the last mountain of the  Col de Peyresourde, take a few photos and then put on the jacket and start the descent.


繼續沿著D918前行,一開始沿著河邊




Ken


不知不覺間就快抵達山頂Col d'Aspin 



      抵達Arreau後接D618,抵達爬坡點之前,下了一陣大雨。一開始緩上坡騎了11公里爬升300米到達Camors 小鎮,Lucia 等著我們, 我們做最後一次補給,吃吃點心水果後。準備上路,續行D618接著騎六公里,爬升550米的坡上今天最後一座山佩爾蘇德山Col de Peyresourde。

     Arriving at Arreau and then turn to the D618, before reaching the climbing point, there was a heavy rain. At first slowly uphill riding 11 kilometers up hill to reach the Camors town. Lucia waited for us, we made the last supply, ate snack fruit, ready to go on the road. Continue to go along D618 and then ride six kilometers to uphill 550 meters of the last mountain pass , Col de Peyresourde.






到達Arreau,Lucia 等著我們, 我們做最後一次補給


      上山前雨已經停了,可以不用穿雨衣騎著上山,也舒服許多。一路上也會看到環法賽標誌,這裡也是今年環法賽Stage12(7/18日)會經過路線。抵達山頂前遇到大逆風,估計有超過十級風,時速只有五公里左右,頂著大逆風慢慢前行,終於抵達山頂。Johnson 在咖啡廳等著我們,等著後面的夥伴抵達後,我們在標高1563米的Peyresourde路標前合影,之後就準備下滑我今日住宿地點盧洪(Luchon)。

     The rain has stopped before cycling to the mountain, you can ride up the mountain without wearing raincoats, also a lot more comfortable. You will also see the Tour de France logo along the way, here is also this year's Tour de France Stage 12. It will pass the route on 18 July. There were heavy headwinds before reaching the top of the mountain, with an estimated wind of more than ten grade. With a speed of only about five kilometers per hour, slowly moving forward against the strong headwinds, finally reaching the top of the mountain. Johnson was waiting for us in the coffee shop. After waiting for the back of the partner to arrive, we took a pictures in front of the 1563-meter-high Peyresourde sign. We ready to downhill at today's place of accommodation, Luchon.


抵達山頂前遇到大逆風





我們在標高1563米的Peyresourde路標前合影

      從佩雷蘇德山頂,這是一個非常愉快的下坡一路到盧洪, 抵達住宿旅館時間已接近下午五點。 今天是此行爬升最多的一天, 騎了102公里, 總爬升 3200米。盧洪是一個熱鬧的小鎮,位於比利牛斯山脈中心。

     From the top of Peyresourde, which is a very pleasant downhill all the way to Luchon, the arrival time of the accommodation hotel is close to 5 pm. Today is the most climbed day of the trip. Riding 102 kilometers, the total ascending 3200 meters. Luchon is a lively town in the heart of the Pyrenees.

   小鎮有一座溫泉療養中心,始終是一個娛樂的地方。有一纜車站可搭乘纜車上Superbagneres,此處冬天是滑雪勝地, 山上附近有許多路線可以健行或騎登山自行車。在山上可以眺望群峰,庇里牛斯山最高峰就在不遠處南邊西班牙境內的阿內托峰(Pico Aneto),標高3404米。

     The town has a spa resort and is always a place for entertainment. There is a cable car station on the Superbagneres Mountain, where winter is a ski resort, and there are many routes near the mountain to walk or ride a mountain bike. Overlooking the peaks of the mountain, the highest peak of the Pyernees Mountain, the Pico Aneto. Height 3404 m. It located in Spain, south of the Luchon.


小鎮有一座溫泉療養中心

有一纜車站可搭乘纜車上Superbagneres



    來歐洲也超過五天了,同伴想吃米飯,提議吃中餐,但這裡找不到中餐廳,只要找到越南餐館, 但餐館不大選擇性不多,我們還是到另外一條比較熱鬧的大街上的義大利餐館用餐。今日爬了很多山頭,大夥都餓了, ,大家多點了牛排餐,餐館老闆還和我們閒聊,提到他女兒明年準備去成都學中文。

    It has been more than five days for my partner to come to Europe, and we want to eat rice, and offer to eat Chinese food. But you can't find Chinese restaurants here, as long as you find Vietnamese restaurants, but restaurants are not very selective. We went to another lively street Italian restaurant to eat. We climbed a lot of mountains today, everyone is hungry, so we order more steak. The restaurateur also chatted with us about his daughter's plans to go to Chengdu next year to study Chinese.



義大利餐館用餐






路線:110公里(3,200米上升)
Route: 110km (3,200m ascending)
註:有三公里路線碼表沒有記錄到

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